Krautrunza is a hotpocket made popular by the Germans from Russia that farm this area. A dough is filled with a mixture of cooked ground beef, sauerkraut, onions and caraway seeds, to become a complete meal when served with a green salad on the side. I can see that it would have been a handy meal to be eaten by a farmer spending long days on a tractor. I was blessed with one of the nicest recipes for the dough by my neighbor Erna. She uses it for her renown kuchen also. I've baked it not stuffed for dinner and hogie rolls. It's versatile and easy.

Project:
Dough for krautrunza, rolls or kuchen

Tools and Materials:
1 stick of butter
1/4 cup sugar
1 package of yeast
1 cup of boiling water
1 egg slightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon of salt
3 1/2 cups flour
rolling pin
large bowl

Step-by-Step:
In large bowl place the butter and sugar and add the cup of boiling water.
After the butter is melted, the sugar dissolved and the water temperature around 100 degrees add the package of yeast.
Let stand for the yeast to proof (forming a frothy layer).
Add the egg
Add the salt and flour.
Combine and allow to stand in a warm draft free place to rise for 1/2 hour.
Turn out onto a floured surface and pinch off balls of dough the size of large eggs.
Roll out the ball of dough to a thin rectangle.
Fill with meat and sauerkraut mixture.
Turn edges over the mixture and pinch ends closed
Bake until brown (about 20 minutes) in a 350 degree oven.
Serve hot. Yummy!

The lawnmower, Murray, is fixed. The proof is in the pudding, er, path. Not unlike me, it has a few idiosyncrasies. When it gets bogged down and threatens to die a little bouncing gets it going again. It's not just a push mower but a push and bounce mower. Exhausting. I know it means something and I haven't found the solution but I will. Ninety percent of lawnmower problems are in the carburetor so I'll start there. In the meantime, I've completed a good portion of the yard that I want mowed. I've learned something in this process. I've learned I want a riding lawnmower or a cute yard care guy. No, I will not be getting a goat.

Fixing this mower took repair, parts and a lot of patience. I have a feeling that if it had been cared for each season it wouldn't have required so much work. Just like a car, tune ups can save the life and improve the functioning of a mower.

Project:
Tuning up a lawnmower

Tools and Materials:
Spark plug socket and handle
Spark plug
Fresh gasoline
Motor oil
Grease

Step-by-Step:
Disconnect the spark plug wire from the end of the spark plug. Always do this first before doing any work on a lawnmower.
Remove the spark plug and buy a new one. They run about $2.00 at the auto parts store.
Remove any gas from the tank left over from the previous season.
Fill the gas tank with fresh gasoline.
Check the holes in the gas tank cap. Make sure they are clean and free of debris.
Check the oil reservoir and add fresh oil. Don't overfill.
If you have a sponge type air filter, take it out and wash with soap and water. Let it dry completely then put a little oil on it and squeeze to remove any excess.
If you have a paper air filter, blow out with air as water or gasoline will destroy it. Best to buy a new one if it's really dirty.
Clean the blade and under the deck of old lawn clippings.
Grease or oil the blade shaft.
Grease or oil the wheel shafts.
Install the new spark plug and tighten.
Reconnect the spark plug wire.

There are so many different models and types of lawnmowers that it's always best to read the owner's manual before using or servicing. And don't forget to use your ear protection and safety glasses when mowing the lawn.

I placed a saddle rack out at the cross ties for resting a saddle where I tie up the mule. There's always a bit of grooming and fussing over Dinah before I place a saddle on her. It's easier on the saddle than laying it on the ground. I also keep them indoors where they are safe from rodents and weather. Besides, I like looking at them when they're not in use. Here's an easy and fast method I used.

Project:
Wall mount saddle rack

Tools and Materials:
Saw
Drill
Philips screwdriver
Wood chisel
1- 4x4 wooden post cut 24" in length
1- tie down hook
1- eye bolt
2- 2" wood screws
Optional rope or carpet to cover
Optional coat hook for hanging tack on the end - reins, britchen, head stall

Step-By-Step:
Cut 4x4 lumber 24" long
At one end of the 4x4, chisel a flat place on one of the corners for the tie down hook.
Drill pilot holes on the cut for the two wood screw.
Secure the tie down hook with two screws to the flattened corner with the hook facing upward. For the 4x4 to hang parallel to the floor, adjustments are made to the position of the tie down hook on the flattened cut - front to back.
Screw eye bolt into secure wall stud or fence post.
Hang rack from eye bolt.
Place saddle on the rack.

I really like to burn candles. One of my favorite kind are the Mexican alter candles that come in tall glass holders. They last a long time, come in a variety of colors and are safe for burning hours at a time. Today I decided they'd make great bud vases but the insides were coated with a sooty film of wax. I decided to experiment with all the ways that wax could be removed. Why? Because I'm thrifty and like to recycle or reuse when I can.

Project:
Removing wax from glass candle holders.

Tools and Materials:
denatured alcohol
white vinegar
paper towels

Step-By-Step:
Fill the container with water and put in a bath of boiling water.
The residual wax will melt and float to the top of the water.
Let the water cool and the wax at the surface harden.
Remove the wax layer at the top.
I experimented with vinegar and alcohol to see which liquid did the better job in dislodging the remaining film of wax. I found that letting the vessel sit with vinegar filled to the top worked as well as sloshing the denatured alcohol around in the other one. I rinsed out the containers with hot water and dried. I put one in the dishwasher and it came out free of wax also. I'm just not sure I'd want to put waxy glass containers in my dishwasher very often. I also tried putting one in the freezer but ended up with frozen wax that didn't want to budge.  The freezing idea probably only works on fabric.

Now that I've taken on the rescue of Wiley and decided he's here to stay, I have concerns about his ability to spot and chase just about any wild life that comes to the ranch. He's so optimistic in his pursuits of mourning doves and horned larks. I feed the birds and enjoy all the activity centered around the seed but I've been feeding on the ground. This makes his pursuits more fervent. I want the pheasants and the quail to still come in to eat so I've decided to make a bird table. I'll be making more than one but here's how I made the first one. It's fast and easy.

Project:
Bird table (bird feeder)

Tools and Materials:
Wood picture frame - 12x15 inches or more
pole of 5-6 feet long 2-3 inches diameter
plywood - 1/4 inch
measuring tape
3 inch wood screw
washer
staples
saw
screwdriver
drill
Polyurethane and brush

Step-By-Step:

I found an oak frame at the second hand store for .99.
Cut plywood to fit in the edge where the picture and glass would normally sit.
Tack wood in place with staples or framing fasteners.
Drill a hole in the center of the plywood and one in the center top of the pole.
Apply a couple coats of polyurethane.
Affix the table to top of the pole with screw and washer.
Dig a hole and install the pole, tamp down dirt firmly around the base.

It's amazing how fast the birds find the seed. Now we'll see how fast the hawks and falcons find a table of birds.

My daughter has finished her book and it's now available at Cafe Press with all the other goodies from her company, 100 Cameras. I'm proud of her hard work over the last year. The book is funny and informative. She's certainly a woman doing it! Have a look...How To Eat (That).

I'm proud of her.

I just returned from a couple of days in Chelan. My mother's kitchen had twenty-two feet of wood molding where the wall met the counter. The section behind the sink was beginning to look moldy and unclean. That's uncool in my mother's world. She pointed out to me that I hadn't written about tiling my own kitchen and she needed information on how to do her's. My mother is amazing and can do quite a lot at 85 but I told her I'd help her with the project if she would go buy the tiles she wanted to use. When I arrived at her house, she had the work space cleared, the molding removed and the nail holes patched. She was ready to start. I am not a professional but here are the steps I followed and the things I learned in the process.

Have plenty of mastic and grout on hand. More is better...you can always return unopened containers and unused tiles but stopping in the middle of the project to buy more can be a problem.

Have extra tiles. Cutting around outlets may take a couple of tries.

Tools and Materials:
Tiles - measure linear feet X 12 = linear inches ÷ by tile size (i.e. 4") = number of tiles needed for one row.
mastic to glue tiles to the wall
grout to fill in spaces between tiles
sealer for grout
spacers
manual tile cutter - rent one from the local rental store. It makes nice straight cuts. I'll go into hand held models later.
hacksaw with diamond blade
plastic applicator and putty knife
grout float for apply grout
sponge
bucket
wide painter's tape
ruler or square
pencil
straight blade screwdriver

Step-By-Step:
Clean walls and fill any holes with patching material.
Tape off the area to be tiled.
Draw around the outlet or switch plates as a guide for cutting tile.
Remove wall plates for light switches or outlets.
Determine where you'll start and where any unique tiles will be placed.
Apply a 1/8th layer of mastic to the wall in small sections using the notched edge of plastic applicator.
Place tile onto the wall pressing into the mastic.
Use a spacer if you are going to place the tiles further apart rather than right next to one another.
Wipe off excess mastic with dampened sponge.
Allow to set up per the instructions on the container of the mastic being used.
Apply grout to small sections at a time with the grout float, wiping off with a damp sponge as you go to push the grout into the spaces between the tiles. Use unsanded grout for narrow grooves and sanded grout for wider grooves.
Let the grout set before wiping off any film from tiles.
Apply a sealer to the grout to protect from water and stains.
Remove tape and reinstall wall plates.

Here's how I handled the tiles I was going to have to cut for outlets, switches and spaces less than a full tile.

I started under the sink with the tiles that would span that distance putting the cut tile in the center.

I worked from the outer edge of the counter up to the cut tiles under the window installing all the tiles that didn't need cutting. I then determined how many tiles I needed to cut for around the switch and outlet boxes and corners. Those I cut and installed after all the full tiles were in place.

My mother is pleased with the way the tiles look and the bright clean appearance. The tiles behind the stove were an addition to the original design but makes cleaning the wall so much easier.

I've been spending a majority of my time the last couple of days doing food preparation for a big Thai dinner I'm giving James for his birthday. Most everything can be done prior to actually cooking the phad thai, chicken satay and thai green curry soup. I will skewer the marinated chicken and let Adrianne and Erik control the grilling. The soup is made and can be kept heated in the crock pot. The Asian salad is made and will be dressed just before dinner. The rice cooker will handle the jasmine rice so that all I'll really have to do is make the phad thai at meal time. The key to good and easy phad thai is to have all the ingredients prepared and laid out so the actually cooking goes really fast. The dipping sauces are waiting to be transferred to serving bowls. I bought the birthday cake as I'm drawn to baking about as much as I am to building cabinets.

Kecap manis is added to peanut sauce or satay marinade and a terrific sauce in its own right.

Here's the recipe:
1 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup soy sauce
3 tbs molasses
1/2 tsp ground galangal (I used regular ginger root)
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil over medium hight heat stirring until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes.
Continue boiling for about 1 minute.
Reduce heat to medium, stir in soy sauce, molasses, galangal, coriander and pepper.
Simmer until very thick and reduced by a third, about 40 minutes.

Haeh haa!!

This kitchen switch now has a job. It turns on the new recessed pot light above the sink. I was determined to bring a hot wire up from the basement to the switch. I had already gone into the attic, installed the new pot light and connected the wire from the switch I had found coiled there. The struggle has been to get a wire to go up through the wall. There is a horizontal brace between the studs. So I had an idea this morning before I even got out of bed. I'd bring the wire up from the basement on the outside of the wall. Specifically the door archway. I took off the molding, drilled a hole in the floor to the basement at the base and one through the stud to the switch box. My handy roto-zip tool cut a fine channel for the romex to lie flush in the doorway stud. I cut the hot wire in the basement, installed a junction box, connected the wires and turned the power back on. When I flipped the switch there was light. Yeehaw!!

Project:
Wiring a single pole light switch

Tools and Materials:
Buy a switch rated for the task - in this case 20 amps 120 volts. On/Off
Straight blade screw driver
needle nose pliers

Step-by-Step:
Turn off the power to the light and switch at the circuit breaker panel.
Take the switch plate off.
Remove the two screws holding the switch in the box.
There are two brass screws on the side of the switch - loosen and remove the wires.
Now the old switch can be removed.
When installing the new switch a black wire goes to a brass screw. Two black wires two screws.
The ends of the wire should have a hook formed on them and placed on the screw in a clockwise position.
Tighten the screws firmly against the wire.
Place switch back into the box and fasten the two retaining screws.
I like to turn the power back on at this point to see that there isn't any arching.
Return the switch plate to the switch.

During the pump priming project, I ran water into the washing machine in the basement to help eliminate the air from the water pipes of the house. My brother-in-law commented on the flow of the water into the machine being very very slow, actually more like a trickle. He suggested I clean out the filters on the water inlets of the machine. I looked at him with my mouth open and a "duh" look on my face. I thought the pump was failing and there wasn't anything I could do but buy a new washer.

I was astonished to see such dramatic results of a simple fix. Duh.

Project:

Clean out the water inlet screens/filters on the washing machine.

Tools and materials:

Pliers
Needle nose pliers
bucket of water

Step-by-Step:

Unplug the washing machine from the wall socket.

Turn off the hot and cold water valves leading into the machine.

Move the washing machine out away from the wall.

On the back of the washer, twist off the hose fitting

Remove the screen using needle nosed pliers or even a tooth pick.

Clean. My cold water supply screen was packed with grit and crud. It took washing it out in a bucket of soapy water.

Restore the screen/filter

Tighted the hose back onto the machine.

The cold water supply is usually more prone to this kind of build up. This residue is disposited in the hot water tank and doesn't usually make it to the washer but it's still a good idea to check it.

Move the machine back into place, turn on the water valves checking for leaks and plug it back into the power.